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By Plane
Getting There & Departing--By Plane--Nature Air has flights departing daily for Tortuguero. The flight takes 35 minutes;
Tacsa offers Charter flights. If you are four or more passengers it is actually cheaper to take a charter flight than the commercial domestic airlines. Plus you have the convenience and comfort of a plane all to yourselves.
It always pays to check with both Nature Air and Tacsa. Additional flights are often added during the high season, and departure times can vary according to weather.
In addition, many lodges in this area operate charter flights as part of their package trips.
By Boat
Flying to Tortuguero is convenient if you don't have
much time, but a boat trip through the canals and rivers
of this region is often the highlight of any visit to
Tortuguero. However, be forewarned: While this trip
can be stunning and exciting, it can also be uncomfortable.
You'll first have to ride by bus or minivan from San
José to Moín, Caño Blanco, or one
of the other nearby embarkation points; then it's 2
to 3 hours on a boat, usually with hard wooden benches
or plastic seats. All of the more expensive lodges listed
offer their own bus and boat transportation packages,
which include the boat ride through the canals. However,
if you're coming here on the cheap and plan to stay
at one of the less-expensive lodges or at a budget cabina
in Tortuguero, you will have to arrange your own transportation.
In this case, you have a few options.
"The most popular method is to get yourself first to Limn and then to the public docks in Mo n, just north of Limn, to get an air-conditioned private bus to Limon click here, and try to find a boat on
your own. You can reach Limón easily by public
bus from San José. If you're coming by car, make
sure you drive all the way to Limón or Moín,
unless you have prior arrangements out of Cariari or
Caño Blanco Marina.
To get to the docks from Limón, there's a bus
that runs from a stop in front of the prominent Radio
Casino building, 1 block north of Limón's central
market; it costs 45¢. Otherwise, you can take a
taxi for around $5 (for up to four people). Once at
the docks, you should be able to negotiate a fare of
between $40 and $70, depending on how many people you
can round up to go with you. These boats tend to depart
between 8 and 10am every morning. Usually, the fare
you pay covers the return trip as well, and you can
arrange with the captain to take you back when you're
ready to leave. The trip from Moín to Tortuguero
takes between 3 and 4 hours.
As I mentioned above, it is possible to get to Tortuguero
by bus and boat from Cariari. This is the cheapest and
most adventurous means of reaching Tortuguero from San
José, but it's also more work, and if you miss
a connection, or the boats aren't running, you could
get stuck in a backwater banana village. To take this
route, begin by catching the 9am direct bus to Cariari
from the Gran Terminal del Caribe, on Calle Central,
1 block north of Avenida 11. The fare is $2. This bus
will actually drop you off in a new terminal in Cariari,
from which you'll have to walk 5 blocks north to catch
the noon bus to "La Geest Casa Verde." The
fare is $1.75. Take this bus to the very end of the
line. Tell the driver you are going to Tortuguero. At
least two boats should be waiting to meet the bus at
the dock at the edge of the river at around 1:30pm.
The fare to Tortuguero should be between $8 and $10
each way. Return boats leave Tortuguero for Cariari
every morning at 7am and make all the return bus connections.
Be careful if you decide to take this route. I've received
reports of unscrupulous operators, substandard boats
and captains, and misinformation provided tourists.
By Car
It is not possible to drive to Tortuguero. If you have
a car, your best bet is to either leave it in San José
and take an organized tour, or drive it to Limón
or Moín, find a secure hotel or public parking
lot, and then follow the directions for arriving by
boat below. You can also leave your car at the lot at
Caño Blanco Marina, but you should try to arrange
your boat transportation and lodging in advance.
In 1996, local citizens and certain municipal officials
began work on a road to Tortuguero, via the village
of Cariari. A large swath was cut to within almost 1km
(a half-mile) of the village, with several kilometers
of the construction passing through protected parklands.
When the project was publicly discovered, it caused
a minor local and regional scandal. Work was halted,
and several parties are under indictment, but much of
the damage is done. There are actually road signs declaring
TORTUGUERO at the turnoffs for both Cariari and Caño
Blanco Marina. Make sure you know where and when you
will be hooking up with boat transportation, before
heading to either of these villages.
Frommers Magazine
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